Pumori Expedition – Climbing on a Popular 7000m. Peak in Everest Region
Pumori expedition is common among the mountaineers who wish to climb 7000m. peak. However, the opening of new 7000m. peaks in Nepal has over shadowed Pumori expedition lately. Pumori lies in the upper Khumbu region west of Mt. Everest and near the border of Tibet. The peak resembles an impressive pyramid of snow and rock dominating the western side of Khumbu Valley. As the peak is only eight kilometers west of Mt. Everest, the view into the Western CWM of Everest from Pumori peak is spectacular.
Pumori expedition is prone to avalanche. So the peak is mostly climbed in post monsoon season. German – Swiss expedition team first scaled Pumori in 1962. For serious Himalayan alpinist, Pumori is a challenging Himalayan peak. Pumori expedition requires several difficult technical sections of climbing rocks, ice walls, tunnels, sharp ridge with exposed strong wind and mixed climbing. Pumori peak climbing is required advanced technical skills of mountaineering. The easiest route is graded class 3. Pumori peak expedition is considered the preparation for big 8000m. mountains in the future.
Route to Pumori Expedition
Pumori expedition begins with the flight to Lukla. We virtually follow standard Everest base camp route and reach Pumori base camp. For Pumori expedition we will set up the base camp at 5300m. We climb through the glaciers and set up camp I at 5700m. We climb the slope of 40 – 60 degrees on the face and get through a snow wall to reach camp II at 6200m. on a narrow ridge. We climb 30 – 60 degrees ice slopes and then pass ice walls with crevasses to camp III at the altitude of 6480m. This section is more likely to have avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Climbing through the crevasses and ice humps leads to Pumori cliff and then finally to the summit.
Expedition Name: Pumori Peak Expedition
Duration: 33 Days
Region: Everest Region
Activities: Trekking & Climbing
Difficulty Level: Moderately Difficult
Best Season: September & OctoberEnquire This Trip
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
Meeting at the airport and transfer to a hotel. A briefing of the expedition at a convenient time.
Day 02 – 03: Official Formalities and Expedition Preparation
Complete the final process of expedition permit and briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and final preparation of the expedition.
Day 04: Kathmandu – Lukla – Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 3 – 4 hrs.
Flight to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft) with spectacular views of breathtaking Himalayas. Take easy walk to Phakding for approximately three hours.
Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazaar (3440 m): 5 – 6 hrs
Walk through beautiful pine forest passing Dhudhkosi River crossing several suspension bridges to Namche with sights of Kusum Kangru, Everest & Nuptse.
Day 06: Acclimatization Day at Namche Bazaar
Hike up to Everest View Hotel for better views of Everest and acclimatization. A pleasant day to explore around Namche or hike up to Khumjung / Thame.
Day 07: Namche Bazzar to Tengboche (3,870m) – 5 – 6 hrs.
Hike up and down through forest and mani stones to Tengboche (3870m.). Great views of Kwangde (6,187m.), Everest (8,848m.),Nuptse ( 7,879m.), Lhotse, Tawache & Amadablam.
Day 08: Tengboche to Pheriche (4,240 m): 5 – 6 hrs
Walk through the forest of briches, conifers & rhododendrons and some magnificently carved mani stones to Pangboche and further passing through beautiful array of fields to Pheriche.
Day 09: Rest & Acclimatization day in Pheriche.
Hike up to to a ridge for acclimatization
Day 10: Pheriche – Lobuche ( 4930m. ): 5 – 6 hrs.
Follow narrow valley and contour around the base of the Khumbu Glacier and steep ascend to Lobuche.
Day 11: Lobuche – Gorak Shep (5170 m) – 5 – 6 hrs.
Follow lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier to Gorakhshep with the views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Pumori, Mt. Mahalangur, Mt. Lingtern, Mt. Khumbutse, Mt. Nuptse, etc.
Day 12: Gorak Shep – Kala Patthar – Pumori Base Camp ( 5300 m ): 5 – 6 hrs
Hike to Kalapatthar for breathtaking panorama of Himalayas and the best and closest views of Pumori, Chnagtse, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, Amadablam etc. Retrace to Gorakhshep and proceed to Pumori base camp
Day 11 – 26: Climbing
Base camp will be set up at 5300m. and the climbing Pumori begins with the climbing through the glaciers to camp I at 5700m. Climbing on face with 40 – 60 degrees slope leads to camp II on a narrow ridge. Climbing through ice with 30 – 60 degrees slopes and passing through ice walls and crevasses takes to Camp III, avalanche prone section. Climbing through crevasses and Pumori cliff leads to the summit
Day 27 – 30: Retrace to Lukla
Day 31: Fly to Kathmandu
Day 32: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 33: Airport transfer for return flight.
Cost will be provided on request
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance & insurance for trekking and base camp staff ( guide cook, kitchen boy and liaison officer )
- Flights to transfer climbing members, trekking and expedition staff, liaison officer and cargo of the climbing gear.
- Food and fuel at the base camp
- All camping equipment at the base camp such as, member tent, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, chairs, tables.
- Trek support for climbing members from Lukla-base camp-Lukla.
- Porters to carry loads from Lukla-base camp-Lukla
- Royalty and peak permit
- Airport arrival and departure
- Accommodation at hotel in Kathmandu before and after the expedition on BB plan
Cost does not include:
- High altitude food and fuel above base camp.
- Climbing equipment, tents and personal equipment above base camp
- Personal accident insurance and emergency rescue evacuation
- Any additional cost cured due to domestic flight delay or cancellation.
- Meals while staying in Kathmandu.
- Gratuity to trekking and expedition staff