Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing
Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing – A peak of Magnificent Climbing on Snow, Rock & Ice
Kyajo Ri peak climbing is ideal for the mountaineers who are seeking more technical trekking peak for climbing. Climbing started not long ago on Kya Jo Ri as the peak is opened recently. The peak is located in Gokyo Valley and its sharp definite summit offers the excellent view of whole Khumbu. Kyajo Ri expedition is relatively technical compared to other average trekking peaks in Nepal.
Kyajo Ri climbing is combined with the fabulous adventure of trekking to Gokyo Ri and Renjo La Pass for acclimatization. The trek starts with the flight to Lukla and follows the classic Everest base camp trekking route up to Namche. The trekking tail follows the route towards Gokyo. We ascend Gokyo Ri with superlative views of the high Himalayas including Mt. Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse.
We proceed to Renjo Pass, another vantage point for the great views of Himalayas and descend to Mende. We hike to the base camp for Kyajo Ri peak climbing. Base camp will be set up in a picturesque valley at an altitude of 4500m. We organize fully guided climbing on Kyajo Ri with the support of highly experienced climbing guide. Furthermore, we organize the logistic support including the peak permit for Kyajo Ri climbing who prefer to climb the peak by themselves.
Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing Details
As the peak is relatively new for climbing, only a few routes have been explored to reach the summit. The normal route for Kyajo Ri peak climbing is via Noth-West Ridge. South – East Ridge route is quite challenging as the climbing will be done mostly on rock and ice. Rock falling while climbing posses a great threat for Kyajo Ri peak climbing. Unlike other trekking peaks, Climbing Kyjo Ri peak should be taken as a small expedition.
Normally, two high camps are established to reach the summit above base camp. Fixed lines are required in the difficult sections. Kyajo Ri peak climbing demands technical climbing skills to climb on rock and ice. The climbing experience of Alpine routes of PD+/AD is required for climbing Kyajo Ri. In a way the successful climbing of Kyajo Ri paves the way for attempting the more technical mountains such as Amadablam for many mountaineers in the Himalayas.
Name of the Trip: Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing
Region: Gokyo/Khumbu region
Duration: 22 Days
Difficulty Level: Moderately Difficult
Best Season: April, May/September, OctoberEnquire This Trip
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
Meeting at the airport and transfer to a hotel. A briefing of the trekking trip at a convenient time.
Day 02: Kathmandu – Lukla – Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 3 – 4 hrs.
Flight to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft) with spectacular views of breathtaking Himalayas. Take easy walk to Phakding for approximately three hours.
Day 03: Phakding – Namche Bazaar (3440 m): 5 – 6 hrs
Walk through beautiful pine forest passing Dhudhkosi River crossing several suspension bridges to Namche with sights of Kusum Kangru, Everest & Nuptse.
Day 04: Acclimatization Day at Namche Bazaar
Hike up to Everest View Hotel for better views of Everest and acclimatization. A pleasant day to explore around Namche or hike up to Khumjung / Thame.
Day 05: Namche Bazzar to Phortse Thanga (3,500m) – 5 – 6 hrs walk.
Follow Khumbu Valley to Sanasa and the trail traverses the hillside to a prominent Stupa on the Mong La that offers superb views of Ama Dablam. Descend into rhododendron forests to Phortse Thang.
Day 06: Phortse Thanga – Machhermo ( 4410m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.
Climbing steeply out of valley through rhododendron forest and pasture land to Dole and further climbing through kharkas to flat land Dole.
Day 07: Machhermo – Gokyo ( 4750m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.
The trail climbs a ridge for an excellent view both down the valley to Kengtega and up towards Cho Oyu. Climb to the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier and passing a few lakes Gokyo.
Day 08: Gokyo – Gokyo Ri ( 5483m. ) – Gokyo ( 4750m. ); 5 hrs.
Climbing on Gokyo Ri, the best view point in Everest region with breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas including Mt. Everest, Kusum Kanguru, Thamserku, K 43, Kangtega, Taboche, Cholatse, Makalu, Lhotse, Nuptse, Changtse, and Pumori. Descend to Gokyo and explore around Gokyo.
Day 09: Gokyo – Renjo La ( 5,340m. ) – Lungden ( 4060m. ): 7 – 8 hrs.
Proceed to north – west following glaciers and moraine to Renjo pass with great views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Cholatse, Taboche. The trail winds down through a stone staircase and then scramble over loose scree and pass Renjo Lake to Lungden.
Day 10: Lungden – Thame ( 3820m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.
Gradual descend flowing trade route with Tibet passing yak pasture land, stone walled field to Thame.
Day 11: Thame – Mende ( 3740m. ); 3 – 4 hours
Walk on an easy trail with gradual climbbing up to Samde village. Further descending and climbing to Mende.
Day 12: Mende – Base Camp ( 4550m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.
Leave main trail and followYak herder’s trail gradually climbing up to the base camp, a flat meadow for yak grazing during the summer.
Day 13: Rest at the base camp.
Spend the day making necessary preparation for the expedition.
Day 14: Base Camp – Camp I ( 5350m. ); 4 – 5 hrs.
Hike over a grassy spur and boulders and some upward rocky sections to arrive at a rough ground to set up camp I at 5350m with the view of climbing route of the mountains all the way to the summit.
Day 15: Camp I – Camp II ( 5700m. ); 5 – 6 hrs.
Technical climbing on scree and rock boulders, glaciers and snow slopes to Camp II at a col.
Day 16: Camp II – Summit ( 6186m. ) – Camp I ( 5350m. ); 10 – 11 hrs.
Start climbing in the morning around 3:00am. Climbing on gradually steepening snow slopes and then a rock band to the main snow crest. Further climbing 55 – 60 degrees snow and ice slopes leads to a pointy summit that offers the awesome views of Khumbu region. Several abseils back down to the col. the Camp II to spend the night.
Day 17: Spare Day for Summit.
Day 18: Camp II – Base Camp ( 4550m. )
Retrace to base camp and enjoy hot meal.
Day 19: Base Camp – Namche ( 3440m. ): 5 – 6 hours
Gradually descend to arrive Mende and further descend to Namche.
Day 20: Namche Bazaar-Lukla (2,800m): 6 – 8 hrs
Following rocky terrain and crossing Dhudhkosi several times, descend to Lukla.
Day 21: Lukla – Kathmandu Flight.
Fly Lukla – Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Farewell dinner at one of the finest typical Nepali restaurant with traditional Nepali culture program.
Day 22: Airport Transfer
Airport transfer for departure.
Cost will be provided on request.
The cost includes:
- International and domestic airport arrivals and departures
- Accommodation at hotel in Kathmandu on BB plan ( as per the choice of the trekkers )
- Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu flight fare including airport tax
- All necessary paperwork for permit ( Peak permit, national park entrance ).
- Climbing guide’s equipment allowance and wages
- Group climbing gears ( ropes, snow bars, ice screws etc. )
- High food
- Accommodation at the hotels / lodges in the trekking trail and camping arrangement at base camp ( cook. Kitchen boy, tents, mattresses, food, fuel, kitchen and camping equipment )
- All meals ( breakfast, lunch and dinner ) in the trekking
- An experienced English speaking trek leader ( trekking guide ) and assistant trekking guide ( 4 trekking members ), and porters ( one porter between two trekkers ) to carry luggage including their meals, accommodation, wages, equipment and accident insurance.
- First aid medical kit
- All government and local taxes
- Farewell dinner
The cost does not include:
- International airfare to and from Kathmandu
- Members personal climbing gears
- Nepal visa fee
- Excess baggage charges for the domestic flight
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- Travel and rescue insurance for trekking members
- Any additional expenses due to domestic flight delay or cancellation
- Any other expenses of personal nature ( phone calls, laundry, bar bills battery recharge, hot shower and boiled water in the trekking ).
- Gratuity for the trekking staffs